Korean Pizza: The Ongoing Quest
I’m not a pizza snob, though I‘ve been known to play one for the internet. Mainly, I find pizza interesting as a phenomenon: An incredibly simple food with countless variations that’s a classic American comfort food despite originating (in very different form) in the Old World.
Also it’s tasty, but that’s a given.
One of my first objectives upon landing in a new city is to try and find at least one decent pizza place. Sometimes, that’s easy. Other times, you’re in Asia. But hey — I had a stroke of luck in China and managed to find several high-quality pizza joints during my time there.
If I could manage that in China, then surely it would be even easier in the Republic of Korea, a far more Westernized and even Americanized country. Right?
Actually…yes, it is, at least in terms of locating the restaurants. What I mean is that it’s easy to find pizza places here. Finding one that’s worth the money? That’s a little trickier. For the styles, service and pricing on these places is varied, and that’s even before considering location — for a great pizza place isn’t worth much if it takes ages to reach.
So let’s take a look at the opening phases of my new quest for Asian pizza.
Johnny’s Pub
Every explorer needs a safe haven, and every pizza hunter needs a standby. For me, that’s Johnny’s, a weird little joint about a block away from my apartment. Four dollars gets you a slice as big as your face (to quote the advertising from my old standby), though it’s cut in half to make it easier to fit in your face. This is a classic American — specifically New York — style pizza, and the only issue I have is that it’s way too easy to end up here every night after my agonizingly long work day.
Flying Pan
Look at the guides for Daejeon and you’ll hear the Flying Pan mentioned. Located just off the Sky Road entertainment district, the Flying Pan is a little nook above an absurdly busy bakery (look for the line around the block). The restaurant itself is a pretty typical faux-Italian joint, while the pizza itself is pretty good — if still too oily for a Neapolitan. The price is reasonable, as well. Mind those pepperonis — they have some spice to them.
Nuovo Napoli
A co-worker was raving about this place, calling it one of the best pizza places he’d ever been to — and how could I resist a tip like that? Located in a little nook just off a park, Nuovo Napoli is the kind of place you can appreciate for its ambience. As to the pizza? It’s even oilier than the Flying Pan, with the toppings sliding off the top as soon as I picked up a slice. It still tastes fine, provided you can get it into your face. And as a nod to it being a Korean joint, it comes with a side of pickled vegetables.
GoPizza
Korea has a few fast food pizza joints as well, and I’d be remiss if I left them out of the conversation. GoPizza is a local chain, one with a location that I passed by every day before I finally broke down and went in. The pizza is pretty much what you’d expect, save one aspect: The crust. “Baaasak” is a bit of onomatopoeia the chain dreamed up for the sound of biting into its exceptionally crispy crust. I’d say that the crust alone made it worth revisiting, except that location was suddenly closed less than two weeks after I visited it.
Papa John’s
Yes, there is a Papa John’s a few blocks away — a little closet that deals solely in takeout and delivery. The same coworker mentioned above has a real thing for Papa John’s, and I’m beginning to think that we have different opinions on what constitutes good pizza. This one was okay, but it was one of the most expensive pies and didn’t really seem worth it. It did at least have another distinctly Korean quirk: A side of sweet pickles which went surprisingly well with it.
Chicago Pub & Pizza
This place greets me every time I step outside of my apartment, and it’s only my general apathy toward Chicago-style pizza that delayed my first visit for so long. The densely layered pie is certainly filling — despite its small size, this is about two meals’ worth of pizza, at least for me. And my order came with a few bonuses: A bottle of Coke and another container of sweet pickles. Seriously, they’re a great palette cleanser between slices.
Cheongdam Ale
Finally, my favorite — which, alas, is probably the most expensive and also the farthest away. This pizza is pretending to be a Neapolitan, though it’s probably closer to an American pizza than what was on offer at the Flying Pan or Nuovo Napoli. It is all-around fantastic, from crust to sauce to cheese, and paired nicely with the Korean-made imperial stout (served in a fancy tall glass) that I ordered along with it.
Want to watch me eat Korean pizza? Of course you do!
